Sleeves

Detachable Sleeves

Combination Sleeves

Italian Renaissance Gown

II. ATTACHED SLEEVES
A. Split Down Top Length D. Top Cap Puffed & Slashed, Rest Straight G. Tubes from shoulder to just above elbow
B. Open down to elbow and closed along forearm E. Top Cap Puffed Tubes, Rest Straight H. Tube-Elbow & Solid from Elbow-Wrist
C. Top puffed, Rest of Straight F. Tubes/Splits Sleeves Straight Down I. Tubes with small bands at intervals
A. Split down top length

1. Using your pattern as a guide, cut 2 sleeves as diagramed and 2 sleeve linings

2. place right sides together and stitch leaving armhole edge open.

3. Turn right side out and press

4. With right sides together, pin and stitch to bodice. Remember not to sew the bodice lining in this seam.

5. Clip around seam and press salvage in towards bodice.

6. Turn bodice lining under and hand stitch. This will give a nice finished look on the inside of the bodice.

7. Measure length of sleeve and evenly divide for 5 or 6 spots to sew a button or bead. This will leave small openings down your arm for your chemise to show through.


B. Open down to elbow and closed along forearm
1. Cut 2 sleeves using pattern.

2. Cut a 7" slit down center of sleeves, bind edge and press.

3. Fold sleeve in half lengthwise and sew from wrist to underarm.

4. Turn sleeve right side out and attach to bodice (follow 4-6 directions on sleeve A)

5. Hem at wrist

6. You can either leave open or divide length evening and sew a bead or button at each point.

C. Top puffed, Rest of Straight
1/2 yd top puff
1 yd base sleeve (1 yd lining optional)
Access to an open arm sewing machine is essential for these directions.
1. Cut 2 full size sleeves out of the same or contrasting dress fabric and stitch each sleeve with right sides together.

2. Enlarge top portion of pattern as illustrated and cut 2 cap sleeves. Stitch each cap sleeve seam with right sides together.

3. Sew gathers on the bottom and top of cap sleeves

4. Turn cap inside out and slip over full sleeve with the top of the cap sleeve closest to the full sleeve hem. Measure the seam length of the cap sleeve and them measure down the full sleeve seam from the top the same length minus 1 1/2 inches. Pin the cap sleeve to the full sleeve at this measure. Adjust gathers on cap sleeve to fit full sleeve as illustrated and stitch. This will give a rounded cap. If the two are sewn together at the same seam length the cap will end up flat.

5. Turn cap sleeve up, adjust gathers to fit the full sleeve top and stitch the two together along top of sleeve.

6. Attach to bodice (follow 4-6 directions on sleeve A)

7. Hand stitch sleeve hem at wrist.
D. Top Cap Puffed & Slashed, Rest Straight

1/2 yd top puff
1 yd base sleeve
1 yd lining
Typically the chemise can be pulled through the sleeve slashes but if you prefer an extra amount of poof than include the following:
1/2 yd lightweight white fabric (optional)

1. Cut 2 full size sleeves out of the same or contrasting dress fabric and 2 sleeve linings.

2. Enlarge top portion of pattern as illustrated and cut 2 cap sleeves.

3. Cut vertical slashes in the cap sleeves and bind edges.

(Skip 4 & 5 if using chemise sleeve)
4. Add 3 inches to the length and width of the cap sleeve pattern and cut from lightweight fabric same as chemise.

5. Gather and stitch the right side of 'chemise cap' to wrong side of the slashed cap.

6. Sew gathers on the bottom and top of cap sleeves

7. Turn cap inside out and slip over full sleeve with the top of the cap sleeve closest to the full sleeve hem. Measure the seam length of the cap sleeve and them measure down the full sleeve seam from the top the same length minus 1 1/2 inches. Pin the cap sleeve to the full sleeve at this measure. Adjust gathers on cap sleeve to fit full sleeve as illustrated and stitch. This will give a rounded cap. If the two are sewn together at the same seam length the cap will end up flat.

8. Turn cap sleeve up, adjust gathers to fit top of full sleeve and stitch the two together along top of sleeve.

9. Attach to bodice (follow 4-6 directions on sleeve A)

10. Hand stitch sleeve hem at wrist.

11. Pull puffs of the chemise cap fabric/ chemise through the slashes and stitch in place if desired.

E. Top Cap Puffed Tubes, Rest Straight

1 yd top puff
1 yd base sleeve
1 yd lining
1/2 yd lightweight white fabric (optional)

1. Cut 2 full size sleeves out of the same or contrasting dress fabric (lining optional).

2. Measure 4" down from the underarm portion of the sleeve pattern on both sides and draw a line across. Measure the width of the cap sleeve and divide by the number of tubes you want. This will give you the number of inches per each tube. Double this number and add a seam allowance. Cut enough tubes for each sleeve. (You can sew a couple of long tubes, turn right sides out and cut the long tubes into the needed lengths for your cap sleeves.)

3. Follow the chemise cap instruction in sleeve C.

4. Gather and stitch the right side of 'chemise cap' to wrong side of the cap tubes.

5. Turn cap inside out and slip over full sleeve with the top of the cap sleeve closest to the full sleeve hem. Measure the seam length of the cap sleeve and them measure down the full sleeve seam from the top the same length minus 1 1/2 inches. Pin the cap sleeve to the full sleeve at this measure. Adjust tube widths on cap sleeve to fit full sleeve as illustrated and stitch. This will give a rounded cap. If the two are sewn together at the same seam length the cap will end up flat.

6. Turn cap sleeve up, adjust to fit top of full sleeve and stitch the two together along top of sleeve.

7. Attach to bodice (follow 4-6 directions on sleeve A)

8. Hand stitch sleeve hem at wrist.

9. Pull puffs of the chemise cap fabric through the tubes and stitch in place if desired.

F. Tubes/Splits Sleeves Straight Down

Using Pattern:
2 yds (or 1 yd & 1 yd lining)

1. Make a copy of sleeve pattern and draw vertical lines as evenly spaced as possible down the sleeve. Cut the pattern apart along these lines and lay on fabric. Remembering to add seam allowance, cut 2 dress fabric and 2 lining pieces from each pattern.

2. With right sides together sew dress and lining fabric leaving open at the top. Clip extra material from corners and turn right side out and press.

3. Attach to bodice (follow 4-6 directions on sleeve A)

4. Either hand stitch sleeve pieces together at wrist leaving tubes open all the way up or stitch at even intervals down the sleeve. At each interval you can sew a button or bead for decoration.


No Pattern version:

1. Measure around the bodice armhole and divide by the number of tubes you want. This will give you the number of inches per tube. Double this number and add a seam allowance. Measure from your shoulder point to wrist and add 2 inches. Cut enough tubes for 2 sleeves.

2. With Right sides together stitch tubes leaving an opening at one end. Turn right sides out and press.

3. Lay out evenly tubes for one sleeve side by side with open ends at the top. On one side of sleeve measure from closed wrist end up the distance from your armpit to wrist measurement plus 2 inches and mark with a pin. Repeat the other side. Cut the tube sleeve as diagrammed. Use this sleeve as pattern for other sleeve.
4. Attach to bodice (follow 4-6 directions on sleeve A)

5. To decrease size at the wrist you can either overlap tubes or fold in each tube side to taper down to size. Either whip stitch together with a bead or button or sew trim around edge.

6. To finish sleeve either:
Hand stitch sleeve pieces together just at wrist leaving tubes open all the way up
Measure length of sleeve and evenly divide for 5 or 6 spots to sew a button or bead. This will leave small openings down your arm for your chemise to show through.

--------------------

No Pattern Version

G. Tubes from shoulder to just above elbow

1 1/2 yds fabric
1. Measure around the bodice armhole and divide by the number of tubes you want. This will give you the number of inches per tube. Double this number and add a seam allowance. Measure from your shoulder point to elbow. Cut enough tubes for 2 sleeves.

2. With Right sides together stitch tubes leaving an opening at one end. Turn right sides out and press.

3. Lay out evenly tubes for one sleeve side by side with open ends at the top. On side of sleeve measure from closed end up the distance of your armpit to elbow measurement and mark with a pin. Repeat the other side. Cut the tube sleeve as diagrammed. Use this sleeve as pattern for other sleeve.

4. Attach to bodice (follow 4-6 directions on sleeve A)

5. Sleeve bottom can either be left open or tubes can be attached.

H. Tube-Elbow & Solid from Elbow-Wrist

3 yds fabric

1. Measure around the bodice armhole and divide by the number of tubes you want. This will give you the number of inches per tube. Double this number and add a seam allowance. Measure from your shoulder point to elbow and add 2 inched. Cut enough tubes for 2 sleeves.

2. With Right sides together stitch tubes leaving ends open. Turn right sides out and press.

3. Lay out evenly tubes for one sleeve side by side. On side of sleeve measure from one end up the distance of your armpit to elbow measurement plus 2 inches and mark with a pin. Repeat the other side. Cut the tube sleeve as diagrammed. Use this sleeve as pattern for other sleeve.

4. Measure length from elbow to wrist and arm circumference just below elbow and at wrist. Use these measurements plus a 5/8 inch seam allowance to draw a pattern as illustrated.

5. Cut 2 sleeves from dress fabric, lining and stiff interfacing.

6. With right sides together and lining on outside, sew around lower sleeve leaving open at the top. ( If you plan on using buttons to close sleeve now is the time to put in cording for loops)

7. Clip corners, turn and press.

8. Sew elbow end of sleeve tubes onto lower sleeve overlapping tubes if necessary. Turn under lining and whip stitch.

9. Attach to bodice (follow 4-6 directions on sleeve A)

10. Sew on buttons to lower sleeves if you made loops or make button holes/add grommets for lacing eyelets.

I. Tubes with small bands at intervals

3 yds fabric

1. Measure around the bodice armhole and divide by the number of tubes you want. This will give you the number of inches per tube. Double this number and add a seam allowance. Measure from your shoulder point to wrist and add 6 inches. Cut enough tubes for 2 sleeves.

2. With Right sides together stitch tubes leaving an opening at one end. Turn right sides out and press.

3. Lay out evenly tubes for one sleeve side by side with open ends at the top. On one side of sleeve measure from closed wrist end up the distance from your armpit to wrist measurement plus 6 inches and mark with a pin. Repeat the other side. Cut the tube sleeve as diagrammed. Use this sleeve as pattern for other sleeve.

4. Baste sleeve pieces together along tops.

5. Measure down from center top of sleeve to wrist and divide the total by three. At the first and second third place a pin to mark and draw a chalk or fabric pen line across.

6. Bands

Easy Method with Ribbon
Measure the circumference of your upper and lower arm, and wrist. Cut 10 inches + each arm segment measurement of grosgrain ribbon. Fold ribbon in half and mark half the the circumference on either side of the center. Do for each segment. Lay ribbons on each sleeve line and adjust tubes to fit within marked limit of ribbon. (On the wrist ribbon you may have to overlap to fit all the tubes in.) Pin and sew ribbon down onto tubes.

Fabric bands: (little more fussy )
Measure the circumference of your upper and lower arm, and wrist. Cu t two upper, 2 lower and 2 wrist measurement rectangles out that are your arm measurement by 5 inches high plus seam allowance. Fold each rectangles in half with right sides in and stitch around leaving an opening. Turn right side out and then press. You can either insert ribbons to tie with or fuss with bands to make the correct size to snugly fit over your underdress and just have 2 solid band to slip on and off with a loop and bead at the wrist band

7. Attach to bodice (follow 4-6 directions on sleeve A)

Top of Page

Sleeves

Detachable Sleeves

Combination Sleeves

Italian Renaissance Gown