Gathered Cap
*At least 1 1/2 yards of 45" material that is the same as the gown for authentic representation. The more fabric you use the greater the sleeve but remember only so much can be gathered into an armhole.
*Thread
*Chalk & ruler

Sleeve Cap Lining: Use 1/2 yard and pattern B to cut 2 cap linings. You may want to trim it down a bit if you have a lot of material from the gathered cap section to fit it all in the bodice armhole. I even suggest making your bodice armhole a little larger to accommodate the extra bulk of fabric. Fold right side together and stitch as pictured. (1)

Using 1/2 yard of fabric for each
cap cut to have this shape (2). For the two

Draw 3-4 lines with chalk and make sure
the ends line up when folded in half. Fold
with chalk lines in and sew as pictured (3)

(4) Starting an inch from the seam stitch around the sleeve following the chalk lines on your machines longest stitch setting or by hand to make gathers. Leave enough thread on either end to tie and knot and gently start gathering the material. Gather to wear it slips over your with enough room for a chemise and the other sleeve.

(5) With righht sides together of cap & lining stitch along bottom of sleeve. Turn right sides out so lining is on the inside and gather the two tops to the size of your bodice armhole and stitch in place. Remember to put a loop, tie or buttonhole at the top of the armhole to attach the other sleeve. Depending on how stiff your cap sleeve fabric is whether it will stay poofed nicely you can pin along the gather line to the lining and tack in place to keep the sleeve cap from shifting or sliding down.

Upper sleeve gathered and lower sleeve detachable

A. Lower Sleeve

1 yd fabric
1 yd lining
Ribbon or cord for loops
thread
(If you use a commercial sleeve pattern that indicates gathering, be sure to cut some of this off. You don't want the sleeves to pucker and gap at the top.)

1. Cut two sleeves and 2 lining. The lining can be of a contrasting fabric for reversible sleeves.

2. Sew side seams on all sleeves.

3. Turn lining right side out and place it inside of outer sleeve so right sides of fabric are together. Place a ribbon or button loop down between the two sleeves at center top. Pin and sew along top of sleeves being sure to reinforce at center top.

4. Turn sleeve right side out with lining inside of outer sleeve.

5. Turn up each wrist hem and whip stitch together.

6. Sew button or ribbon on top of sleeve.

1. Cut sleeves at illustrated to the right. Make as wide as you want but remember the fabric will be sewn into the dresses armhole. Length of the sleeve pattern determined by where you want the bottom edge to fall on your arm. The dotted line represents the final sleeve length length - it's not a stitch line.

2. Fold sleeve lengthwise and stitch as indicated.

3. You are now going to turn 1/2 of the sleeve onto itself so the selvedge edge will be "inside" and the right side of the sleeve will be visable on the outside and the side of the sleeve that will be next to your arm. The final origami-fold will look like the next picture.

4. Either gather or pleat the top of the sleeve and sew into the bodie armhold. The size of your upper sleeve may be larger than the picture to the right - it all depends on how wide and long you want your upper sleeve to be when finished.

5. Sew button or ribbon to underside of bodice armhold to attach Lower Sleeve A.